Bozak Cma 10 2dl Manual

Bozak Cma 10 2dl Manual Average ratng: 9,0/10 8172 votes

The DC rail on a CMA 10 - DL is +40v I don't know the exact voltage of the transformer secondary (I've got to be quick), but I do know of a man who should do: Chuck McGregor [Chuck.McGregor(at)eaw(dot)com] Chuck worked for Bozak and was involved with all the CMA10 series. Justin edit: just looked at my schematic - it's definitely +40v (I've known this for years, but I wanted to check - the old grey matter ain't what it was!). Edit: Ok, this will work: find a spare centre-tapped transformer with secondaries rated up to 35v-ish volts (combined). Drive its primary with the variac until you get +40v DC.

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Measure the output across the secondary - voila! You have a trimmer in the supply, so I reckon that anything around +35v on the secondary should work. It's late here though.

To be safe, I would suggest connecting the 24-0-24 transformer off a variac. If you get +40v at the DC rail, but with the variac near your mains voltage, you will know the transformer is about right. You have a trimmer on the PSU, so you have some tolerance there, but at the same time, if your secondaries are too low, the regulators will run out of headroom and you will see ripple. Because I have not studied the PSU, I am not sure what will happen if the secondaries are too high; some modern regulators are quite happy to regulate to voltages well below the input voltage, but I would advise caution with a discrete design of this nature and go on the assumption that you want a secondary the same as the original unit. When I exchanged emails with Chuck McGregor, he explained what I suspected, i.e.

The Bozak mixers were intended to be the most reliable mixers available. If you replace perishables, i.e. Electrolytic caps and pots, the mixer should work well for another 30 years. Hello, I'm back with my bozak mixer (never had some time to repair it correctly) I ve changed most of the psu parts, measured the secondary of the original transfo ( 18v-0-18v is what I read with my voltmeter and no load) When I put the bozak ON, the bridge rectifier is quickly really hot.and I see some smoke:?: I'm asking me what can make that the bridge rectifier is so hot? Is the psu asking for more cuurent that the rectifier can give? Or another problem. I recognize I haven't all the required knowledges, but I'd like to understand:roll: For infos all transistors have been changed on the psu board first schematic shows how is connected the psu transfo: Second schematic shows the psu board schematic: Any help is welcomed:green.

I've got to be quick: I've probably restored over 10 CMA -10 - 2 - DL now, and to be honest, I have never seen a fault that was inherent to the design. Every issue I've seen has either been down to dried-up electrolytics, leaky tants or worn out pots.

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Have you replaced all the electrolytic caps in the PSU? I've seen faults due to dry joints on the PSU board as well. I recently fixed a DLA that had wrong-value caps all over the place, particularly in the EQ. (a UK firm did it.rhymes with 'dimple'.). If I think of anything, I'll post back tomorrow.

I have a DL that I'm finishing at the 'mo (gratuitous name drop alert) for Mr P Forge, so if I can think of any measurements that are of use I'll post here. Due to the design, it's difficult to take readings from the PSU though as the solder side is jammed against the side of the case. Have you thought of taking out the card and trying it with a bench PSU? If you trigger the PSU's protection, you'll know the fault lies elsewhere. I can't do it because the bridge rectifier is too hot quickly.and smokes:? I don't know what is the interest of the relay on the psu board (protection?) but I don't hear it (when the contacts close). Statistica 10 rus torrent download. I've to remember that at the start of this problem, the bozak has been connected to 220V instead of 110V!!!!!

I've checked the output of the transfo and it seems ok, I read on my voltmeter 0-18V-18V on the three pins on the mother board and comming from the transfo secondary (without the psu board) Now I'm thinking to test the psu board out of the bozak to see if the problem is on the psu board.or not! Here a picture of the psu board: Thank you for infos!:wink. The CMA-10-2-DL has the most fragile PCB of any piece of gear I know. Even with what I believe to be the fastest reworking tool available (De-non SC7000), it's easy to lift a pad. If the PSU has been plugged into 220v, I bet a transistor's gone. A decent reworking tool will enable you to remove transistors without damaging them for test (give it a few seconds between desoldering pins to cool it down - a decent rework tool will heat the component less than the iron that soldered it in place).